Every Sunday until 1998,omote-sando,the main street in the Harajuku area of Tokyo,was declared a pedestrian heaven or Hoko-ten,and all traffic was banned for the entire day.On one particular Sunday in March 1997 I was standing on a street corner outside my new office surveying my surroundings when two girls wearing tartan duffle coats caught my attention.They weren't doing anything in particular,just hanging out while a few foreign tourists book their picture,but they exuded an attitude and degree of presence that was hard to ignore.

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