The book Italian Eyes: ITALIAN FASHION PHOTOGRAPHS FROM 1951 TO TODAY strives not only to bring into the limelight a few Italian photographers who made photography history but also to put into the spotlight an Italian style that goes beyond fashion, thereby offering us a kind of image repertory that reconstructs the changes in fashion and trends as well as the evolution of society from the post-war period to today. Through photographs, fashion features in Italian and foreign magazines, and ad campaigns this volume aims to give an important inside view of Italian photography and its protagonists.
In recent years fashion photography has become the leading medium of contemporary visual culture: it has evolved from mere fashion supporter to creator of’icons and ideas. Fashion photography plays a decisive role in all fields of communication and it is by now considered a legitimate form of art. Its power, in defining itself as image and communication, lies in its ability to record, and very often to determine, the here and now of our time.
The book Italian Eyes: ITALIAN FASHION PHOTOGRAPHS FROM 1951 TO TODAY strives not only to bring into the limelight a few Italian photographers who made photography history but also to put into the spotlight an Italian style that goes beyond fashion, thereby offering us a kind of image repertory that reconstructs the changes in fashion and trends as well as the evolution of society from the post-war period to today. Through photographs, fashion features in Italian and foreign magazines, and ad campaigns this volume aims to give an important inside view of Italian photography and its protagonists.
Italian Eves is not the dictionary of Italian fashion photography: the photographers presented in this book are an important part, but there are other players as well. This project would like to be a starting point, a first look into, an opportunity to reflect (even critically) upon a kind of photography that in Italy has never left the fashion circuit. This volume, which covers a span of time from the offical birth of Italian fashion (1951) to the present, does not follow a chronological order but instead its images are compactly assembled according to theme. In addition to the book’s images there is a series of texts that, from different points of view, attempt to provide historical and critical tools for a preliminary analysis of a topic that is waiting to be explored and discussed. The volume also includes photographer biographies that piece together the life and career of each single artist.
Introduction
MARIA LUISA FRISA
15
A Gaze
ANNA MATTIROLO
38
Rome: Stars and Aristocrats
SOFIA GNOLI
40
ItaLians Look Back
MADDALENA RENZI
56
Directed by Venice ...
Souvenir d’Italie
MARIA FRANCESCA BONETTI
60
The Fashion of Photography
CLAUDIO MARRA
82
The Lost Italian Masters of
Fashion Photography
JAMES SHERWOOD
102
Blow-up
MAURO TI NTI
108
Art and Glamour, Intelligence and Fashion:
The Interactive hnagery of Ugo Mulas
MARIUCCIA CASADIO
128
Ugo Mulas and Fashion
ANTONIA MULAS
130
Reverie
MARIA LUISA FRISA
152
Veruschka Was Here
CAROLINE CORBETTA
164
Muses in Minis
ELENA MORETTI
166
The Pioneers
FEDERICA M UZZARELLI
184
Off to Conquer America
MADDALENA RENZI
186
Ship’s Log: Italian Fashion along the Mediterranean Route
ELSA ROBIOLA
187
Marpessa, a Story
FERDINANDO SCIANNA
2O4
The Celebrity Portrait in Fashion
STEFANO TONCHI
206
A
ANNA PIAGGI
230
Look into My Eyes
FRANCESCO BONAMI
232
Beautiful
TONI THORIMBERT
257
Styles Wide Shut: Dreams That Money Can Buy
ANTONIO MANCINELLI
266
Deep Waters, or the Escape
CLOE PICCOLI
270
Slightly out of Sync
EMANUELA DE CECCO
282
How Beautiful the Girls of Via Margutta
GIAMPIERO MUGH1NI
298
The Toscani Case
GIUSI FERRE
300
Fashion Photography and Advertising
PAOLO LANDI
304
Multifibre Thrills
CARLO ANTONELLI
326
Franca’s Touch
CESARE CUNACCIA
358
Biographies
ALESSANDRA VACCARI
363
Essential Bibliography
393