Tiaras have always inspired a great fascination and the most beautiful and influential women have been painted, photographed and admired whilst wearing them. Even in the twenty-first century they are still worn and continue to inspire special poise and elegance. This lavishly illustrated book includes new photographs of a variety of Royal tiaras together with those of French and Russian Imperial provenances. Geoffrey Munn has been granted special access to the photographic archives of many famous jewellers, including Cartier, Boucheron and Faberg, for his research. Other makers include Castellani, Fouquet, Garrards, Giuliano, Lalique, and Tiffany. Among the contemporary pieces illustrated are tiaras belonging to Jamie Lee Curtis, Vivienne Westwood, Elton John and Madonna, made by Slim Barratt, Galliano and Versace.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER ONE
PROFANE TO SACRED
The Classical Revival, The Influence of Napoleon and Josephine
CHAPTER Two
DRESSING THE HAIR
Excess and change in hair fashion, Hair ornament and jewellery
CHAPTER THREE
COURT AND SOCIAL
Queen Victoria, Edward and Alexandra, King GeorgeV and Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother,
The Queen, Princess Margaret, The Coronation of 1953
CHAPTER FOUR
THE TIARA AND THE COSTUME BALL
Magnificence and extravagance of Costume Balls, Present day equivalents, Lavish use ofjewellery
CHAPTER FIVE
ROYAL AND IMPERIAL FRANCE
Jewels commissioned by Kings and Emperors of France, Uncertain politics of the time
CHAPTER SIX
THE RETURN TO SOURCES
Revivalism in France, Castellani and the School of Italian
Archaeological Jewellery, Giuliano, The Egyptian Revival, Orientalism
CHAPTER SEVEN
RUSSIA AND THE RUSSIAN STYLE
Intermarriage in the Royal Houses of Europe, The Court of the Last Tsar
The Russian Jewellers and their Influence, Faberg6, Cartier, Boucheron, Revolution and Revaluation
CHAPTER EIGHT
IN AND OUT OF AMERICA
Tiffany and Company
CHAPTER NINE
THE TIARA AS A WORK OF ART
Art Nouveau, Ren4 Lalique, Georges Fouquet, MaisonVever, Ren6 Louis Foy, Lucien Gaillard, Fr6d6ric Boucheron
CHAPTER TEN
ART DECO AND BEYOND
The Tiara Today
APPENDIX
CROWN JEWELS AND ROYAL COLLECTIONS
Austria, Bavaria, Denmark, England, France, Italy, Portugal, Prussia, Russia, Some European Royal Jewels
NOTES
BIBLIOGRAPHY
INDEX