New Orleans has always been a see-it-while-it’s-still-there sort of destination. The city has always been surrounded by water, and mad-as-hell hurricanes have always threatened to whid in off the Gulf of Mexico. From the beginning, Mother Nature has had her own plans for the sinking, bowl-like floodplains, reclaimed swamps and natural levees on which the city stands. New Orleanians don’t just live with that fact. They’ve made high art out of it. Their city has always been a rare, tragic beauty. And, Katrina be damned, New Orleans is still here, folks, with its swelling love of life and a new, fresh eye on the future.