With almost half of Thailand's urban population squeezed into the capital, it's understandable that most change in the land of smiles begins here. Change doesn't come much more sweeping than a coup d'etat. Bangkokians, who have a tendency towards great swings between political apathy and extraordinary groundswells of activism, were integral in creating the conditions for the coup that ousted former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra. Yet after everybody went home, the City of Angels settled into an uncharacteristic slump.

Two Bangkok-based authors,720 hours of on-the-road research,24 maps, countless tuk-tuk trips.

Dedicated Drinking & Nightlife chapter covering Bangkok's chameleon club scene, as well as top spots for a quiet tipple.

Local residents tell you why they love their city.

Content updated daily - visit Ionelyplanet.com for up-to-the-minute reviews, updates and traveller insights.

INTRODUCING

BANGKOK

HIGHLIGHTS

THE AUTHORS

GETTING STARTED

When to Go

Costs & Money

Internet Resources

BACKGROUND

History

Arts

Architecture

Environment & Planning

Culture & Identity

Government & Politics

Media

Fashion

NEIGHBOURHOODS

Itinerary Builder

Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi

Banglamphu

Thewet & Dusit

Chinatown

Local Voices

Siam Square, Pratunam,

Ploenchit & Ratchathewi

Riverside, Silom &

Lumphini

Thanon Sukhumvit

Greater Bangkok

SHOPPING

Ko Ratanakosin &

Thonburi

Banglamphu

Chinatown

Siam Square, Pratunam

& Ploenchit

Riverside, Silom &

Lumphini

Thanon Sukhumvit

Greater Bangkok

EATING

Ko Ratanakosin &

Thonburi

Banglamphu

Thewet & Dusit

Chinatown

Siam Square, Pratunam

& PIoenchit

Riverside, Silom &

Lumphini

Thanon Sukhumvit

Greater Bangkok

DRINKING &

NIGHTLIFE

Drinks

Drinking

Gay & Lesbian Bangkok

Live Music

Clubbing

Go-Go Bars

ENTERTAINMENT

& THE ARTS

Theatre & Dance

Dinner Theatre

Kathoey Cabaret

Cinemas

Galleries

SPORTS &

ACTIVITIES

Health & Fitness

Activities

Spectator Sports

Continued from previous page.

SLEEPING

Ko Ratanakosin &

Thonburi

Banglamphu

Thewet & Dusit

Chinatown

Siam Square & Pratunam

Riverside & Silom

Lumphini & East Sathon

Thanon Sukhumvit

Greater Bangkok

EXCURSIONS

TRANSPORT

DIRECTORY

LANGUAGE

BEHIND THE SCENES

INDEX

WORLD TIME ZONES

MAP LEGEND