本书主要研究服装结构对于服装适体性和运动功能性的影响，并从结构上解决或弱化造型与运动功能性的矛盾。

本书第一章介绍研究背景和目的。第二章研究三维人体扫描方法在人体非标准姿势测量中的应用。第三章通过石膏法的应用，获得不同姿势的人体原型，并精确测量人体尺寸。第四章以石膏法中所获得的不同姿势的原型为基础，利用服装软件“COAT4.1”设计不同的放松量进行纸样制作，从而制作出实际的服装。第五章设计并应用压力传感器，测量当人体处于不同姿势时服装与人体之间的压力。第六章通过不同姿势的人体尺寸调查，对适体成衣中的放松量效果进行评价。第七章对全书进行总结。

本书是作者在英国曼彻斯特大学攻读博士学位期间研究工作的结晶，亦是作者多年在服装工程领域教学与研究的经验总结。主要研究服装结构对于服装适体性和运动功能性的影响，并从结构上解决或弱化造型与运动功能性的矛盾。本书由七章组成。第一章介绍研究背景和目的。第二章研究三维人体扫描方法在人体非标准姿势测量中的应用。第三章通过石膏法的应用，获得不同姿势的人体原型，并精确测量人体尺寸。第四章以石膏法中所获得的不同姿势的原型为基础，利用服装软件“COAT4.1”设计不同的放松量进行纸样制作，从而制作出实际的服装。第五章设计并应用压力传感器，测量当人体处于不同姿势时服装与人体之间的压力。第六章通过不同姿势的人体尺寸调查，对适体成衣中的放松量效果进行评价。第七章对全书进行总结。

本书无论对于企业生产，还是科研、教学工作都具有较强的指导作用，适用于服装院校本科生双语教学，也可作为服装工程专业研究生的参考书。

1.Introduction

 1.1 Garment—Making Systems

1.1.1 Haute Couture

1.1.2 Block Patterns

1.1.3 Pattern Drafting

 1.2 Background to the Research

 1.3 Proposed Solution

 1.4 Aims and Objectives

2.Literature Review

 2.1 A Study of the Shoulder Girdle

2.1.1 Description of the Shoulder Girdle

2.1.2 The Function of the Human Body and the Clothing Shoulder Girdle

 2.2 Anthropometrical Study for Clothing Application

2.2.1 Sizing System-Anthropometrical Study

2.2.2 Development in Anthropometric Methods

 2.3 Movement Function in Clothing Comfort and Fit

2.3.1 Human Body Movement

2.3.2 Describing Body Movement

2.3.3 Applying Data on Body Movement to Clothing Design

2.3.4 Clothing Comfort and Fit

 2.4 System of Pattern Construction

2.4.1  Modelling

2.4.2 Drafting System

2.4.3 Block Pattern Construction

 2.5 The Fitting Process and Ease Design

2.5.1 General Background of Fitting

2.5.2 Types of Fit

2.5.3 The Amount of Ease

3.Comparison of 3D Body Scanning with Manual Measurement of Dynamic Postures

 3.1 Introduction

 3.2 Methodology

 3.3 The Manual Measurement Method

3.3.1 Manual Measurement Results

3.3.2 Analysis of Experimental Results of Manual Measurement

 3.4 Three-Dimensional Body Scanning Measurement Method

3.4.1 Highlight Landmarks on the Body

3.4.2 Three-Dimensional Body Scanning Measurement Result

3.4.3 Analysis of Experimental Results of 3D Measurement

 3.5 Comparison Between the Result of 3D Body Scanning and Manual Measurement of Dynamic Postures

 3.6 Analysis of Measurement Errors

 3.7 Summary

4.Design Clothing by the Plaster Method

 4.1  General Background

 4.2 Experimental Work

4.2.1  Preparing the Experiment

4.2.2 Experiment Process

4.2.3 Experimental Result

 4.3 The Plaster Cast Pattern

4.3.1 The Pattern for the Natural Position

4.3.2 Compared the Plaster Patterns of These Three Postures

 4.4 Creation of CAD Patterns Derived from the Plaster Cast

4.4.1 About COAT 4.1

4.4.2 Creation of COAT Pattern from Plaster Cast

 4.5 Practical Garment Design

4.5.1 Pattern Design for Limited Movement—Based on the Natural Position

4.5.2 Pattern Design for Loose Fit Blouse—Based on Liftl80 Plaster Cast

4.5.3 Pattern Design for a Semi-Fitted Blouse—Based on H180 Plaster Cast

4.5.4 Comparing Pattern Measurements for Different Levels of Fit

 4.6 The Fabric Choice

4.6.1 KES Results and Analysis

4.6.2 Material Analysis of the Chosen Fabric

 4.7 The Finished Real Clothes

5.Transducer Application in the Research

 5.1 Construction and Operational Principles of the Pressure Transducer

 5.2 Transducer Design

5.2.1 The First Sensor

5.2.2 The Second Sensor

5.2.3 The Third Sensor

5.2.4 The Fourth Sensor

 5.3 The Other Equipment Required in the Experiment

 5.4 Transducer Calibration

 5.5 Choosing Measurement Points on the Body

 5.6 Experiment Procedure

5.6.1 Results for Clothes Based on the Natural Block

5.6.2 Results for Clothes Based on the L180 Block

5.6.3 Results for Clothes Based on the H180 Block

 5.7 Analysis and Conclusions from Garment Pressure Measurements

6.Size Survey

 6.1 Purpose of Survey

 6.2 Subject Source

 6.3 Setting Measurement Items

 6.4 Analysis Basic Measurements of the Survey

  6.5 Analysis Particular Measurements of the Survey

6.5.1 Girth Change for Different Postures

6.5.2 Length Differences in Different Postures

  6.6 Clothing Size Survey for Fitting Test

6.6.1 Further Analysis of the Subjects with Small Size

6.6.2 Sample Source

6.6.3 Measuring the Clothes

6.6.4 Analysis of Ease in Different Parts for Different Postures

 6.7 Compare the Results from Plaster Method with that from Size Survey

 6.8 Optimising Style and Dynamic Comfort from Sleeve Construction

6.8.1 Adding Ease to the Back to Improve Dynamic Comfort

6.8.2 Adding Appropriate Back and Sleeve Width for Comfort

6.8.3 Concealing the Pleat

6.8.4 Manipulating Style, Proportion and Construction to Provide Ease

6.8.5 The Hem Solution When the Arms Are Raised

6.8.6 Setting the Front-Back Partition Improve Dynamic Freedom

6.8.7 Detachable Garment Segments Help to Determine Body Expansion

 6.9 Summary

7.Conclusions and Recommendations for Further Work

References

 Appendix 1

 Appendix 2

 Appendix 3

 Appendix 4

 Appendix 5

Acknowledgement